Awas Memilih Kosmetik

NANI ingin mendapatkan kulit muka yang cerah. Sahabatnya Siti menggunakan sejenis produk pencerah dan mencadangkan kepada Nani agar turut mencuba. Menurut Siti selepas menggunakan produk itu selama tiga minggu hasil yang ketara akan terlihat.

Selepas mencuba selama beberapa minggu kulit Nani menjadi gatal gatal dan kemerahan. Dia alah dengan produk tersebut dan terpaksa berjumpa doktor bagi rawatan alahan.

Namun Nani tidak putus asa. Setelah kulit mukanya pulih semula dia mencuba pula produk yang lain. kali ini kulitnya cerah dan tidak ada sebarang masalah.

Oleh itu Nani terus menggunakan produk itu selama setahun. Selepas setahun Nani bertukar pula ke produk baru yang disyorkan oleh temannya. Nani terpengaruh lantaran melihat kulit temannya yang halus dan licin. Namun selepas dua bulan Nani mendapati kulitnya kusam. Dia juga melihat kesan pigmentasi mula terjadi dan membuatkan hatinya risau.

Nani berjumpa saya kerana dia telah membaca berkenaan produk kecantikan yang beracun bakal mencetus masalah kanser dan pigmentasi kulit jika di gunakan terlalu lama. Dia meminta saya memberi nasihat berkenaan pemilihan produk kecantikan yang sesuai pada kulit. Beliau juga ingin tahu apakah yang dilakukan oleh produk tersebut kepada kulit kita.

Saya mendapati ramai daripada kita mengalami pigmentasi akibat penggunaan bahan kosmetik yang tidak terkawal. Untuk membaik pulih kes seperti ini adalah rumit. Ini kerana ia memerlukan rawatan bersiri termasuklah suntikan vitamin dan transeminic ke dalam kulit bagi mengurangkan angiogenesis pada sel sel melanocyte itu.

Bahan-bahan pencerah boleh didapati daripada alam semulajadi dan juga menerusi proses sintetik.

Berikut dihuraikan serba sedikit mengenai bahan pencerah dalam kosmetik.

Sejenis hidroquinone yang sudah mengalami proses glycosylated. Ini bermakna struktur kimianya adalah sama seperti hydroquinone namun mempunyai molekul glukosa yang melekat padanya. Arbutin terdapat secara semulajadi di dalam buah-buahan seperti kranberi, pear, bluberi dan buah-buahan jenis beri yang lain. Arbutin menghalang tindakan tyrosinase (sejenis enzim yang menggalakkan pembentukan melanin iaitu pigmen pada kulit). Apabila arbutin disapukan kepada kulit ia meresap jauh ke dalam dan menentang pembentukan melanin. Hasilnya kulit menjadi cerah perlahan-lahan.

Asid kojik

Bahan semulajadi yang terhasil daripada sejenis kulat. Ia sering digunakan dalam proses membuat tapai di Jepun. Ia terbentuk dari aspergillus oryzae iaitu spesies kulat yang sering digunakan dalam proses pembuatan sake di negara Matahari Terbit. Pada awalnya kojik digunakan sebagai pengawet bagi bahan makanan dan kosmetik. Penggunaan kojik menyebabkan warna makanan dan kosmetik kekal cantik dan tidak kusam. Kajian saintifik menunjukkan kojik sesuai untuk kulit manusia dan pigmentasi seperti melasma dan bintik-bintik hitam. Oleh kerana sifatnya yang berasid, anda mungkin berasa gatal sedikit di peringkat awal penggunaannya. Ia bertindak menghalang pembentukan melanin melalui proses oksidasi.

Hidroquinne merupakan agen penting dalam menangani pigmentasi. Ia mampu menyerang sel-sel melanocyte dan merosakkan DNA dan RNA pada sel tersebut. Ini menjadikan sel-sel itu rosak dan tidak mampu menghasilkan pigmen. Namun begitu sifat hydroquinione yang toksik tidak terhad pada sel melanocyte sahaja. Sekiranya digunakan dalam kuantiti berlebihan ia turut merosakkan sel-sel lain juga. Oleh itu penggunaannya haruslah terhad kepada empat bulan dan mengikut nasihat doktor sahaja. Selepas empat bulan anda harus merehatkan kulit beberapa bulan sebelum menggunakannya semula. Penggunaan hydroquinone membuatkan kulit kita menjadi berubah dari segi sifat semulajadinya. Sel-sel seolah olah menjadi mutant dan berubah dari segi komposisi semulajadinya. Ini mewujudkan keadaan bergantung kepada hydroquinone. Tanpa hydroquinone kulit gelap semula.

Asid azelaic

Bahan semulajadi di dalam pyhtosporum ovale yang merupakan sejenis yis atau kulat. Fungsi asid azelaic adalah bagi membunuh melanocytes melalui sifatnya yang menghalang thioredoxin reductase sejenis enzim dalam mitokondria sel melanocytes.

Azelaic asid turut berguna dalam rawatan jerawat, lentigines, rosacea dan pigmentasi yang disebabkan keradangan.

Retinoids seperti trenitoin dan adapalene adalah derivatif kepada vitamin A. Ia turut menghalang aktiviti tyrosinase menyebabkan pigmentasi tidak terjadi.

Vitamin B3 yang aktif dan menghalang proses warna terjadi pada sel kulit.

Protein soya

Mengandungi enzyme serine protease yang menghalang pembentukan melanin. Namun kesannya agak lambat. Dengan menyapu sebanyak dua kali sehari ke muka kesan pencerahan dapat dilihat selepas 12 minggu.

Pengelupasan dengan asid buah buahan atau asid lembut

Fungsinya ialah meningkatkan proses pembentukan epidermis baru dan membuang melanin yang lama. Jenis asid yang sering digunakan adalah alfa hydroxyl asid, glycolic asid, trichloroacetik asid.

Sejenis molekul glycoprotein yang terdapat di dalam tumbuhan aloevera. Ia menghalang tyrosinase tanpa menunjukkan sebarang sifat toksik seperti hydroquinone.

Asid tranexamic

Menghalang cahaya UV daripada merosakkan kulit. Ia juga menghalang daripada pembentukan melanosit.

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